Showing posts with label Tokyo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tokyo. Show all posts

Monday, 14 March 2011

Earthquake! Photos

Forget the sidewalk - the road's so much faster.
Fuzzy, but crowded.
No bread products for you!
No spaghetti for you! But help yourself to macaroni.
No rice, and only a few more eggs.
Ramen? Forget it.
But... help yourself to Japanese noodles. Soba, udon for all!
Interesting that none of this sold.
This is pretty darn busy for our little supermarket. Oh, the mask is for the evil hay fever.

Earthquake! Part 4

Well, Tokyo is getting back to normal, or at least it's trying. Due to the energy shortage, however, trains are either cancelled or running reduced schedules, making for some very long waits. There are also scheduled blackouts in various areas. We had two scheduled for today, but they were both cancelled, which was nice. The threat of blackouts, however, has people buying food like you wouldn't believe. Most stores are out of rice and water, among other things. Our little supermarket was also out of bread products - feel free to dine on jam, though, there's still plenty of that - instant ramen, and, of all things, spaghetti. The Japanese aren't fans of other kinds of pasta, so there's still plenty of shell, macaroni, etc. This works for me. I'M SO TIRED OF SPAGHETTI!

I was planning on heading to work today, but H. requested that I stay home. Our train line was running, but reduced, and the crush was expected to be enormous. From what I've heard and seen, there were massive lines that took hours and hours. The same is expected for tomorrow... Yeech, I am definitely not looking forward to it. It almost makes me wish I lived along one of the train lines that isn't running.

The aftershocks continue, but there haven't been too many that we've been able to feel in Tokyo. The only one that stands out happened this morning while we were talking to my parents. I think it was a 5.-something, with its epicentre in Fukushima. They have a neat little ringing noise that they play on the news and radio to warn people. Of course, hearing it doesn't always mean things are going to start shaking, but still, it gives one time to fasten one's bicycle helmet (I am likely the only person who does this...).

Anyway, here are some photos, taken by iPhone.

This doesn't do the crowds justice.
 
Friday's walk. One of two damaged buildings.
Would you like some jam with your... jam?   

Friday, 11 March 2011

Earthquake! Part Three

In fact, the earthquake wasn't responsible for the majority of deaths. Just like in the Great Kanto Earthquake, it was what happened afterwards that did the most damage. The Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 occurred just about lunchtime when everyone was using gas to cook. The fires that spread as a result of broken gas lines wiped out huge swathes of the city and there were charred bodies floating down the rivers, lying on the street, etc. The Edo-Tokyo Museum has a fantastic display on that earthquake, for anyone who finds him/herself in Tokyo one day.

Gas lines automatically shut off these days, but there's not much planning you can do to stop a tsunami, and it was just that after yesterday's earthquake that caused the casualties to soar and sent the financial cost of rebuilding skyrocketing. You've all seen the images by now, I imagine, so you know as much as I do pretty much. When we were watching the news in the evening, they had to cut the video on at least one occasion when it became clear they might be broadcasting someone's death. Why people insisted on driving near the ocean, though, does boggle the mind. And driving parallel to the ocean... I would have been speeding away from the ocean, methinks.

Anyway, H. and I made it to his family's home at around 11pm. H. had called his mum to come get us when the traffic appeared to be improving, but it got worse again and we ended up meeting her only about a twenty-minute walk from the house. Driving back took almost as long. She filled us with warm soup, tasty treats and tea and then drove us home to our apartment, where, amazingly, only three things had fallen (including a mountain of laundry). Unbelievable. Considering the stuff that went flying at my office, and that was only the fourth floor, I was sure our ground-floor apartment would be at least almost as messy, especially considering my habit of stacking. Again, I LOVE Japanese building codes, as well as Japanese cupboards which close with a snap, just for these occasions.

Aftershocks continued all night, in addition to two completely unrelated earthquakes on the other side of Japan that we could feel in Tokyo. It made for an uneasy sleep. I haven't felt an aftershock since this morning, though I know it will remain a possibility for several more weeks. Right now, the worry is several nuclear power plants that have had some failures. Japanese nuclear reactors are built, of course, to extremely high safety standards that take into consideration Japan's instability, but well, it's hard to plan for an earthquake this big. And to all the people who wonder why on earth Japan even has them when it gets earthquakes, I ask you this: in a country with so few natural resources, how else do you think it can generate power to cover roughly 127 million people and a developed (if ailing) economy? Japan's in a bit of a bind on the energy front. But it does its best.

Okay, that brings me to the end of the story... so far. H. managed to get a few iPhone photos last night, but the light is pretty bad. I'll try to get them online anyway. I'll end things with a little prayer for the people up north, for those who are missing, for those missing loved ones, for those who have already been found too late, and for those working so hard to take care of everything and everyone.

And don't forget: Fireproof hat.

Earthquake!: Part Two

Sometimes you really have to hand it to the Japanese. I always thought that the plentiful public washrooms were a sexual assault/molesting waiting to happen, but man, after an earthquake, they're like manna from God (non-edible manna to be sure, but something wonderful none-the-less). S., who had been unable to finish his business during the earthquake (you try peeing through violent shaking), was eager to find a washroom. So was I. When pregnant ladies need to pee, they need to pee. That taken care of, it was off to Meiji-Jingu Mae (S.'s meeting place) and Yoyogi (my dojo, where H. was). At this point, the cell phone network was swamped and down. I did my part, of course, to contribute to the jamming, by attempting to call and text my husband ad nauseam.

Oh boy, how the streets of Tokyo can get crowded when the trains aren't running. The areas around train stations were jammed with people. And people walk slowly. Far. Too. Slowly. But, I made it to Yoyogi and to my dojo where my husband and a sempai, K-san, were watching the news on our Kancho's TV. Relief! Well, relief to see my husband, and K-san of course. Relief to see that Tokyo was spared the worst of the damage. Not so much of a relief to see images of tsunami sweeping cars, boats and houses away, and buildings on fire. It was one of those "but for the grace of God..." moments.

We could have stayed at the dojo all night, but with aftershocks few and far between, and with the knowledge that we'd have to walk it in the morning anyway, we choose to head home on foot. This would definitely not have been possible had I been on my own. Roads in Tokyo are just impossible. Apparently, convenience stores were giving away free maps to help Tokyo-ites who didn't know the way home. Others were using their phones' GPS units. H. has lived in the area his whole life and has a car, meaning that he knows the roads. Another bit of luck running in our favour was that I am a comfort-over-fashion girl who works in a casual office, so I was wearing sneakers and comfy clothes. Actually, better than sneakers: hiking shoes. Boo yeah. Let me tell you, I did not envy the stylishness of the Tokyo ladies in stilettos last night at all.

Restaurants that stayed open did brisk business last night. So did karaoke places, manga cafes, convenience stores (was there an onigiri left in all of Tokyo??) and, one would assume, hotels. Places were really good about letting people use their washrooms, and we passed one home that had set up a table and chairs in their garage area and were serving tea and cookies to weary walkers. Nope, no pillaging for Tokyo.

As far as damage went, while we did stick to the main roads, we only saw two damaged buildings in four or five hours of walking. The damage was minimal - broken glass, a bit of concrete off the wall. Japan has strict building codes precisely for this reason. The codes can't prevent all damage, especially in an 8.9 mag earthquake, but they do go a long way towards minimizing damage and loss of life. Buildings are built to sway here. That's why being in a high-rise exaggerates earthquakes to the point where you exclaim "now THAT must have been at least a 7!" when in fact, it was but a 3.5. Tall buildings can sway several metres in either direction. It's scary, but better some swaying than a lot of collapsing. Concrete is also reinforced. In the photos from Sendai, you can see where concrete has fallen off the building, but the still-standing building is a criss-cross of steel wires. You still don't want to get stuck under falling concrete, but at least the building is less likely to tip over onto you.

Earthquake!

A fireproof hat is on my 2011 Christmas list. Just so you know. Either that or a good helmet. They say this kind of earthquake is a once-in-a-lifetime thing, but still, I'd rather have the hat and not use it than be at the epicentre next time without one. But we were lucky, so incredibly lucky, here in Tokyo. I cannot begin to imagine if 8.9 had struck off Tokyo Bay. Odaiba would have sunk. Artificial islands have a tricky habit of doing that. And how Japan would have dug itself out, not just physically, but financially as well, is beyond me. As it is, they're already estimating that it will cost $10 billion. Japan doesn't have that kind of money. Who does these days?

The day started off as usual, as so often happens. I headed to work, my husband to our karate dojo. I was scheduled to finish at 3pm and was just wrapping things up (and putting off using the washroom, which would become annoying) when, at about 2.46pm, things started to shake. This being Japan, no one really was too concerned. There were no immediate dives for cover by any means. Earthquakes happen. They're usually short and sweet (or at least small). The people walking around the office didn't even notice. But then things started to shake more and people began to stabilize the loose objects close at hand - water bottles, computer monitors, magazines, etc. I choose to grip my desk in a white-knuckle fashion, as is my habit during little earthquakes.

The shaking didn't end at moderate, however, and soon people were leaning up against cabinets to keep doors shut, or else half-way under their desks with free hands stabilizing what they could. You'd think things couldn't have gotten worse, but they did and our floor manager gave the order to cower. He didn't have to ask me twice, although some people stayed standing to try to protect expensive equipment. I chose to yell at my neighbour, who was still leaning against a cabinet: "Get under the Goddamn desk, C.!" I think that's what I said anyway.

After the shaking, and ignoring the piles of stuff on the floor (apparently, we lost a rather nice TV...), our manager, N., thought it might be an idea to locate our emergency evacuation area. That's why N. is in charge. We were only on the fourth floor, having moved from a tenth-floor office in January (thank GOD. Even minor earthquakes feel like the Big One when you're that high up), so the trip to outside wasn't so daunting. We found the area (a cemetery, how morbid) and headed back to the office just in time for a rather unsettling aftershock. That kept us outside, and eventually sent us back to the evacuation area. We waited and waited and waited, with sirens blaring every once in a while, and muffled loudspeaker announcements that no one could understand.

Me: So, um, does that siren mean that we're all clear, or does it mean something else?
Co-worker: um, it means that another 'quake is coming.
Me (starting to walk a heck of a lot faster to clear the tunnel): uh-huh, um, tunnels...

Eventually, N. let us know that the building was being locked up, and we were free to go home, if that was a possibility. I was late to meet H. and luckily had a co-worker heading in the same direction to meet his wife (and he knew the way to boot), so off I headed. Now, S. had been using the washroom at the time and said that his first thought was "Man, this is NOT how I wanted to go." But I have since been told that Japanese washrooms are incredibly well-built rooms and if you lack a good table to hide under, they are the go-to place. I guess some things are the same no matter where you are. Still, I can't get the image of the bathtub from upstairs crashing through my ceiling out of my mind.

Saturday, 17 July 2010

Summertime in the City - Escape on a Bicycle

I like to pretend that there aren't many things which I fear, but the truth is, there are plenty. Spiders, centipedes that bite, excessive speed while riding in cars, the liver eating guy from the X-Files (even though he's not real...I think)...well, you get the idea. A few years ago, much to my chagrin, I had to add another to the list: cycling in Tokyo.

I decided, though, to give it another go, after moving to a more western and less traffic-filled area of Tokyo last year. However, procrastination and nerves kept me out of the saddle until just last week.  Partially motivated by H.'s assertions that I was leaving my bike to rust (which he had very kindly fixed up for me on two separate occasions), I hauled out my Tokyo maps and figured out how to get from my apartment to the Tama River Cycling Path (not to be confused with the Tama Lake Cycling Path).


I had made one other trip along the Tama River. Several years ago, after I moved to Yoyogi from Ogikubo, I had to get my bike to my new place. Trial and error (and my trusty maps) got me there, but I had to head towards the ocean and Haneda Airport on that occasion (and then had to bike up through Shinagawa, Shibuya and Harajuku - not fun!). This time, I headed towards the mountains, very, very hazy in the distance. 


Despite some super-speedy cyclists who seem to have a hate-on for anyone who can't go as fast as they can (and pass, from the oncoming direction, at the most inopportune times), and scads of baseball-playing youth who weave all over the place on their little mama-chari bikes overflowing with equipment, the Tama River path makes for some nice cycling. I've been out twice, the first time going a bit further than Yotsuya Go-Chome (not the one in central Tokyo), and then this morning making it to Fussa-shi in Mizudori Park (round-trip=50km give or take) out Musashi-Itsukaichi way. By the end, it was greenery galore and, I'll wager, a degree or two cooler than the rest of the path. Pure joy! And the even better part is, I wasn't scared at all. Boo yeah!


           
Picture Ids, top to bottom: imitation Tokyo Tower en-route to the path; the Tama River; fishermen (well, fishing poles) on the Tama River; inflatable canoes under a bridge; city rice farming plus rice farmer, blue tarp teepees in Nogawa Park, spotted on my way home



Friday, 16 July 2010

Summertime in the City - Flowers!

"Oh," sighed my husband, "there are so many flowers these days that I have never seen before."

Poor chap. Sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse, times are always a-changin'. In the case of flower variety, I would argue that it is for the better because I just love pretty things.

I actually don't have many pictures of flowers at the moment, but I am sure they will proliferate over the coming months, so just hold tight if you're aching to look at pictures of flowers. But, for starters, here are a few.


Morning glories are called "asagao" in Japanese, which translates as "morning face". They are all over the place. These are from a house in our neighbourhood. 

If you're interested, find a video here to learn how to make an origami morning glory. It's in Japanese, but you really only have to watch the lady's fingers to get the gist of things. A few of these, plus leaves (also shown) made with some delicate washi (Japanese paper) and glued onto some cardstock, make a really cute greeting card.   

Did you know that the seeds of the morning glory are hallucinogenic? According to the Canadian Biodiversity Information Facility, a Government of Canada webpage, the Ipomoea tricolor variety was long used in southern Mexico as a hallucinogen, prepared into a drink. But I'd stay away from the seeds in the "Bon Appetit" way if I were you - if you scroll down to the bottom of the linked webpage, there's a story of one attempted trip that went badly wrong... Actually, there are two stories. One about a cat (accidental, one would think) and one about a girl (250 seeds consumed, eh? Nothing accidental about that).                     

I believe these to be rhododendrons, although I may be mistaken. I'm always forgetting. In Japanese (if I'm right...) they are called either "shakunage" or "tsutsuji" (which is also one of the words for azaleas, my other guess, but as they're from the same genus, this isn't surprising). According to eHow, rhododendrons have ten stamens, while azaleas have only five or six. I counted the stamens in the picture of the white flowers, and there appear to be ten, hence my guess.

There is a hotel in Hakone (the Odakyu Group's Hotel de Yama, named with a delightful blend of French and Japanese) that is famous for its azaleas and rhododendrons (apparently, it has 3000 azaleas). Each year Japanese descend on the grounds in droves to get some sweet pictures with Fuji san and Ashinoko (Lake Ashi) in the background. When we went, alas, they had barely started blooming and the whole flower-seeing 
adventure was a bit of a bust. *sigh*

Poppies, poppies, poppies - how I love poppies! These poppies were part of a group of multi-coloured poppies in one of the parks near my house, Musashino-Koen. They are so pretty! 

Summertime in the City - Cathedrals in Japan, Oh My!

Hear this! I have good news! The rainy season is finally over!

And thank the good Lord because...UGH! It had its upsides (cooler nights, which were much appreciated), but rain all the time means humidity, which means mould, which means I am not a happy camper. Of course, it's still humid, so there will still be mould, but at least it's sunny, which keeps me happy.

It doesn't feel like I've been up to anything exceptionally interesting, which I suppose is the result of being busy with work and whatnot lately, but I had some photos that I wanted to post, so I thought I would do a little (read: long and rambling) entry to go along with them.

First up: Last week, H. wanted to look at some camping supplies (another new hobby), so we headed to Ochanomizu and Kanda (the sports districts, I suppose they could be called. Also, musical instruments). They're neighbouring areas of downtown Tokyo. Apparently, once upon a time, you could see the Imperial Gardens from the area, but now, not so much. Thank you,development.

There are, not surprisingly, a number of historical buildings in the area, but we committed ourselves to only exploring one since we had economy supporting to do. Our pick had European flavour. It had religion. It had a dome and bells. It was... Holy Resurrection Cathedral, AKA St. Nicolai-do, the main cathedral of the Japanese Orthodox Church.



St. Nicolai-do was built in 1891 by the priest Nikolai Kasatkin (originally Ivan Dimitrovich Kasatkin), who was made Archbishop of Japan (1907) and later canonized (1970) as "Equal-to-the-Apostles, Archbishop of Japan, St. Nicholas". Unfortunately, the only info on him that I can find (and read... blast these poor Japanese reading skills!) is Wikipedia, but he seems quite interesting. In fact, through reading about him and the cathedral, I learned about a rather interesting snippet of Japanese-Russian history. Apparently, a Japanese police officer was a little too stabby-stabby one day and tried to kill the future Tzar Nicholas II! If you're interested, check out the Otsu Incident (again, the only site with much information is Wikipedia...).


Anywho, the cathedral was damaged in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and subsequently had to raise money via the choir to rebuild. Apparently, it's a little smaller now, but it's still darn pretty. The inside is quite something, too (no photography allowed, unfortunately).

Saturday, 15 May 2010

A Canadian Family in...Asakusa

Question: where, in Tokyo (and quite possibly Japan, and possibly even Asia and the world), are you most likely to find the highest concentration of foreigners?? If you answered Asakusa, you would be right.

If you're looking for souvenirs, then Asakusa is the place to go. If you want a huge temple with an impressive gate, and even a few shrines inside, then Asakusa is the place to go. If you want to see a brewery's office shaped like a mug of beer, then Asakusa is the place to go. It also has lots of tasty snacks and ice cream. 

Many things were purchased, lunch was had, long lines leading to the ladies' room were waited in and a boat was left un-boarded (for the time being, at least. Mwa ha ha ha ha). All in all, it was a good day, and a tiring one. Poor H fell asleep on the train ride home.


This picture is of my sisters and me eating some delicious ice cream. I made them get purple potato (murasaki imo), as it is pretty special. I got Japanese cherry (sakura) which was SO much better than any cherry flavour I have ever had in all my life. 

The lovely gate behind us is the second gate leading to the temple. The first is at the beginning of the shopping street and is scads more crowded. Yikes.

A Canadian Family in Koganei

It's moments like these when I wish I had kept a detailed log of what went down like my dad did... But, since I am rather long-winded, I suppose it's a good thing (for any readers out there) if I cannot be as detailed as I would like.

I do remember that we spent the first day in Koganei Park (accessible out the north exit of Higashi Koganei Station on the Chuo Line). The cherry trees were partially in bloom, and even though not as awe-inspiring as they are at full bloom, it was enough to set off an obsession for my little sister, E. Other highlights included watching carp (koi) swim and gulp air, and contemplating a rather packed island of turtles and the one poor guy who just couldn't get up to sun himself. Notice I included the word 'sun' - you won't read this often in the summary of this trip. It was, for the most part, cold and wet and cloudy and foggy and more cold and wet. Moving on...

But Koganei isn't just home to big, slimy fish and cute, little painted turtles. Oh no, it's also home to the Edo-Tokyo Tatemono-En. An an open-air architectural museum of Edo-era buildings, it is a lovely place to get a quick overview of how Tokyo-ites (Edo-ites? Edo-ese? Edo-ians?) lived. They have fantastic guides (and the odd fantastically learned visitor willing to explain everything as though he were a guide). We breezed through a few buildings (best one: samurai farm-house, complete with four-tatami samurai suicide room...see, 'shi' is the Japanese word for four and death, so...) and made our way over to the Edo shopping street, stopping at the bus (under which my father took a peek and announced it to be a four-wheel drive),the trolley car and the (now waterless) public bath.

Forgive the lack of photos - the ones I have are somewhat less than flattering. I might nip a few from my sisters collection, but I'll decide that later.

Friday, 20 November 2009

A Glimpse into the Mind of a Tokyo Newbie

I wrote this a month after coming to Tokyo. It pretty much sums up how I felt back then, riding trains to and from work in a city that just never seemed to end. While I am quite a bit more literate in Japanese than I was back then, I still find myself drowning in kanji on a regular basis.

Ode to Tokyo


Strange days in a
          Tokyo haze
Cars far too big for the narrow streets
speed by me
As I sit staring out the train window at the bright lights of a city so huge,
          So foreign, so hard to believe...
                                                       Is real...
I'm really here in this crazy
                                     trippy
                                            world
          of manga and Keropi ~
Hello Kitty greets me from every angle
Every surface covered in flourescent flashing
                                                               "Buy This!"
                                                               "Buy That!"
I can't read what it says,
But I get the gist...
                           It's all the same, no matter where you go,
                                                   but different.
Hiragana, katakana, kanji ~ all sprinkled together like one big bowl of Alphabet Soup,
                     but it's bizarro Alphabet Soup that I can't read...
Illiterate, everywhere I look is something else I can't read...
              But even if I could, would I understand?
This culture shock, shocks the system, culture walk into the Land of Oz...
         Odds and ends that don't match ~
                  East meets west, old and new, grey and seizure-causing colours make up this crazy city known as Tokyo
             Bright lights in a haze of starry night...
                                     This is Tokyo.